Tom, If your son can machine one, can he machine 2? I would gladly pay for one! Thanks

Yes.

Gates 33009, a 195 degree thermostat. Any equivalent by other manufacturers will work also. This is a VERY common style of thermostat, so it should be simple to get at any auto parts store.

Bob, Coolant temp light sender/switch or coolant level sensor? Coolant temp light sender/switch is a standard component used on many GM vehicles and can be ordered from Rock Auto or procured from your local auto parts store. Standard Motor Products (SMP) TS50. There are some other brands also, but I have used this on other CV's I have rebuilt. Coolant level light sender is also available from SMP, FLS3. It is black instead of the original white GM part. Also required is the circuit board that drives the light on the dash. Unfortunately, the circuit board is not available new so you will need to locate a used replacement if yours is bad. There are also the early Vega coolant level kits that Chevrolet retrofitted to early Vegas (recall retrofit). These circuit boards are electrically the same, but I am not sure if they will bolt up to the stock mounting under the dash. If your board is bad you can pick up one of the Vega Low Coolant Light kits off eBay for under $30 and see about using the board out of the kit.

Can't help you with original floor pan finish as my CV is a northern car that was Ziebarted when new. But, here are some pics of an original 75 CV muffler. Note the original outlets were rather small - 1.5" ID. Most recreations I have seen use a commercially available offset inlet and center outlet muffler then fabricate a split tail pipe right after exiting the muffler.

BR70-13 tires are LONG out of production (like 40 years). The metric equivalent is 195/70R-13. These are also quite rare now. Best options are 185/70R-13 or 205/60R-13. There are a number of performance options in the 205/70R-13 size. Toyota Proxes are an excellent performance tire.

There is only the fuse in the main fuse block for the dash lights. Your suggestion that the head light switch could be the culprit is the logical next place to look, and most likely the culprit.

The Cosworth speedo cables were originally wrapped in a fiberglass cloth sleeve to protect them from the heat of the header. The aftermarket replacements do not have this insulation sleeve on them. I would strongly recommend wrapping the replacement before installation to prevent the plastic case from melting. You can use the glass cloth tape the club sells for wrapping the coolant temp sender wires, just wrap it loosely so there is an air gap between the tape and the cable, or some of the material sold by speed shops for wrapping plug wires on high performance engines. Neither will look exactly correct, but will work to reduce the heat transfer to the new speedo cable.

I wish NOS heater cores were available! Unfortunately, I have not seen them since the late 80's when I was lucky enough to find one. Unless someone comes up with an NOS core out of their collection, or a good used one, I have been getting regular Vega non-AC cores and swapping out the curved inlet from the leaking Cosworth heater core.

If you are running Webers you can get by with a 74-77 Vega sending unit. Otherwise, I am not aware of any other GM sending unit that will work in the Cosworth Vega tank.

Swapping mirror guys is simple. I am not sure if the Monza guts are the same - been a long time since I looked at a Monza, like 40 years. But the pedestal is definitely different. The bracket for the hood hinge were precision placed at the factory before welding - which is why there is no adjustment on the hood. The good news is the hole in your bracket looks in good shape so when you make the new bushing as long as you have a tight fit into that hole and your ID and OD are concentric your hood should line up fine with the fender. The original bushing had a step on the end creating a shoulder to correctly position it to bracket.

The sport mirrors used on the Cosworth (and 74-77 Vegas) were common to many 70's GM cars. The Monza hatch back and Monza Town Coupe are NOT interchangeable. You may still find these in a few salvage yards, they are available on eBay, and new ones can be purchased through OER. The hood retaining clips were originally the "push clips" not "C" clips. Whenever the hood is removed these are usually broken and not replaced. They really are not necessary. As for the missing hood hinge "bushing", this is not an uncommon failure. Find a junk Vega and liberate the bushing and have it welded onto your existing bracket, or simply make a new bushing and have it welded onto your bracket.

Rock Auto now has the Felpro BS13241 seals back in stock for $17 plus shipping. Looks like EngineTech S0629 are now out of stock.

John, Great information! Rock Auto shows Enginetech S0629 in stock for $11.07 ea, plus shipping. Just adding another alternative to Amazon.

Adam, HME (Hutton Motor Engineering) reproduced the gold dash appliques back in the early 80's and 90's. Previous to their reproductions the only option was to buy the entire plastic bezel from GM, and these have not been available since the early 80's. The first run of reproductions used the same materials and tooling as the original GM parts. The later runs used different tooling (hence the 2 piece design Jay talks about) but still used the original material type. I don't believe HME produced any inserts since the late 90's, so any remaining ones in the club inventory would be from HME's old stock.

This is a common problem that I have now seen on several cars. I have even seen this on a brand new never installed clutch cable for a 140 Vega (same plastic spacer even though the cable is a different length). I suspect that the plastic shrinks as it ages and eventually cracks due to the stress of the cable housing through the center of the spacer. I don't know of any place that sells the plastic bushing/spacer. As for electrical isolation, that is not the intent as the other end of the clutch cable housing is in contact with the metal firewall, not to mention the cable itself is metal to metal on both ends. More than likely it was originally intended to prevent corrosion from galvanic action between the steel clutch cable housing and the aluminum bell housing. I have replaced the failed plastic bushing by getting a long grade "3" 14mm bolt with a length of shank between the bolt head and the threads, cutting off the threads, and drilling an appropriately sized hole ( I believe 5/16" dia) through the center axis of the bolt. I have had this in one of my CV's for about 10 years now, after having three plastic spacers fail. The zink coating on the bolt body has so far prevented corrosion between the new metal spacer and the aluminum bell housing.

On my Android device there is an arrow in the top left corner that takes me back to previous screen/place in the app.